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Delancey Rock
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Bullish 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, 10/06
Page Views: 38
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Tom Donnelly in position to pull the roof.

Description 

On the far right end of Delancey Rock, use a lieback flake to reach a small roof. Pull the roof and continue up and left on nice plates. Although this line is bolted it could just as well be led on gear. The roof is not as intimidating as it may look and my friends and I all thought the route went at 5.8. I think it has cleaned up a bit in the lower section, making the climb easier than on the first ascent.

As a variation, you can start on the same flake at the bottom, but follow the crack up to the anchor. This is a very nice finger to hand crack that goes at about 5.8+ if you avoid using the block that leans into the main wall. For this variation, take gear from thin to 2" Rappel to descend.

Protection 

5 bolts, bolted anchor


Photos of Bullish Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo/topo for Delancey Rock, Holcomb Valley Pinna...
BETA PHOTO: Photo/topo for Delancey Rock, Holcomb Valley Pinna...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bullish (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
BETA PHOTO: Bullish (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom D. continuing up the sweet crack variation.
Tom D. continuing up the sweet crack variation.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom D. leading on gear, about to tackle the crack ...
Tom D. leading on gear, about to tackle the crack ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jochen leading the upper section of Bullish.
Jochen leading the upper section of Bullish.

Comments on Bullish Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 28, 2009

Finally led this one. The 5.10a guide book rating is indeed generous. One or two moves and they aren't very hard. Great climb nonetheless.
By Steve Powell
Aug 2, 2009

much fun
By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 23, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun moves down low in the corner and over the roof but the last couple of bolts make the climb feel forced and don't really add much to the overall quality.