|Type:||TR, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||bkplmmns on Nov 23, 2014|
|Comments on Bullet Holes||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Johnny O
From: Wilkesboro, NC
Oct 9, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Currently, this route only has one bolt down low and anchors for toproping. We had soloed it before the park opened so I felt comfortable with leading it as it is. I have been placing a single cam at the highest point that will accept pro. However, I wouldn't recommend leading it until it is finished.
How you start this route will determine how difficult it is. The main thing is getting in position for the opening moves. Down, and to the left of the bolt is a small horizontal ledge and a decent side-pull up above it. Put your left hand on the ledge and grab the side-pull with the right hand. It is very important to have the feet positioned correctly or this move is going to seem difficult. Step into one of the bigger bullet holes with the right foot. It will be almost directly under the bolt and just a few inches (less than a foot anyway) off of the ground. The left foot needs to come up a bit also, for balance, so that you can stand up on the right foot. Immediately shift the left foot up beside your left hand and proceed to stand up on the ledge. There is another hold up and to the left that you can grab as you are standing up. You will now need to grab the horizontal edge above, which can be tricky if you are short. Straight up is probably the hardest unless you are tall. There are some holds to the left or you can step over to a small ledge on the right and use a bullet hole for a handhold. I am not going to describe every move, it seems to be the start that people have trouble with. I did post a few pictures to show most of the line.
Steve Pope had this one graded at 5.8, which I didn't find out until later. I have a little bit more of an advantage in height so it is a little easier for me and I like slab. No matter what, it is a fun route and not that difficult.
By Tait Chandler
From: Carrboro, NC
Mar 11, 2017
|There are now three bolts before the anchors.|