Bull Dykes and Biker Ducks
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Pitch 1: Climb off the anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch of Western Grebe. It works right, past the left-facing corner beginning of Fool's Paradise, and works a roof with a pin. After this roof is a slab with 3 bolts and another pin.
Pitch 2: is the west-most of the four bolted routes above the chain anchor. Flaky rock leads past two bolts to more flaky rock etc. Get to a ledge and continue up the 5.8 arete or just finish off to the left. This should clean up if it were climbed more. Come on all you slabbers!!
Bolts, pins and some long runners. All Chain anchors.