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Bull Dog Rock
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Bull Dog Direct S 
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Left Route T 
Peanut, The T 

Bull Dog Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Season: Dry
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 13, 2015

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The old anchor is no good, but the anchor to the l...


This is the easily visible bolted line in the center of Bull Dog Rock directly above the path to Castle Dome. It is between the crack and another line of bolts. Follow closely spaced bolts through some exciting moves.


The guide shows 6 bolts, but there are actually 12.
The bolts are somewhat old, most of the hangers look homemade, and they are almost all spinners. I was able to finger tighten some bolts, and others were too rusted. The anchor at the top is unusable, but you can easily use the anchor to the left.

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By Evan Wisheropp
Jun 13, 2015

The guide showed six bolts, but after the bulge you'll see there's more to the route (12 total actually). I wonder if they rebolted it soon after with the exact same bolts/hangers.

We climbed it on the way down from Cosmic Wall so I didn't have many draws anyway, I ended up using single biners on the bolts that were in line with the route and backcleaned others since some bolts are very close. The route is pretty sustained and has many bulges to hit if you fall so skipping bolts doesn't really work.
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Oct 1, 2015

Both anchors are pretty old and rubbish IMO! Also a one star route not 3! what is it with the over rating! Really, this is as good as the dyke route??
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 2, 2015

No, the left anchor is OK. Top rope access is pretty simple too. A good route to top rope on your way down the hill. The lead bolts need to be replaced though.

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