REI Community
Bull Dog Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bull Dog Direct S 
Flake and Shake TR 
Left Route T 
Peanut, The T 

Bull Dog Direct 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: Dry
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Evan Wisheropp on Jun 13, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The old anchor is no good, but the anchor to the l...

Description 

This is the easily visible bolted line in the center of Bull Dog Rock directly above the path to Castle Dome. It is between the crack and another line of bolts. Follow closely spaced bolts through some exciting moves.

Protection 

The guide shows 6 bolts, but there are actually 12.
The bolts are somewhat old, most of the hangers look homemade, and they are almost all spinners. I was able to finger tighten some bolts, and others were too rusted. The anchor at the top is unusable, but you can easily use the anchor to the left.


Photos of Bull Dog Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bull Dog Direct
Bull Dog Direct

Comments on Bull Dog Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Evan Wisheropp
Jun 13, 2015

The guide showed six bolts, but after the bulge you'll see there's more to the route (12 total actually). I wonder if they rebolted it soon after with the exact same bolts/hangers.

We climbed it on the way down from Cosmic Wall so I didn't have many draws anyway, I ended up using single biners on the bolts that were in line with the route and backcleaned others since some bolts are very close. The route is pretty sustained and has many bulges to hit if you fall so skipping bolts doesn't really work.
By Crimper E6
From: cheltenham, UK, SW is the BEST
Oct 1, 2015

Both anchors are pretty old and rubbish IMO! Also a one star route not 3! what is it with the over rating! Really, this is as good as the dyke route??
By Evan Wisheropp
Oct 2, 2015

No, the left anchor is OK. Top rope access is pretty simple too. A good route to top rope on your way down the hill. The lead bolts need to be replaced though.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About