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John's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alberta S 
Amazon T 
Bulges T 
Easter Rising S 
From Aldo to Abbey T,S 
Houston S, The S 
Nose, The S 
Route 66 T 

Bulges 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 423
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 22, 2011

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Description 

This finger crack follows a right-facing corner, and is the best natural line at Johns Wall. Stem your way up passing 2 or 3 bulges. The crux is near the top, where the climb overhangs and the crack thins. Stem and pull on pockets through this to the chains. Rated 5.9 in the old guide.

Location 

The obvious right-facing corner with a finger crack in the center of Johns.

Protection 

Cams from TCUs to 2", nuts. Larger cams (3" and 4") can be placed in a couple of places but are by no means necessary.

2-bolt anchor, with chains, for rappelling.


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By Nathaniel Dray
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This climb is excellent. Good, safe gear, great positioning, really fun movement and features at the top!