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Mill Creek Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Dreams  S 
Bulge to Groove T,TR 
Chimney T,TR 
Deflator-Mouse T,S 
Dihedral T,TR 
Dirty Boulevard, The S 
Eye of the Tiger S 
Face T,TR 
Face (left of Freeway) TR 
Feline Antics S 
Freeway T,TR 
Groper S,TR 
Honey Pot S,TR 
Joint Therapy S 
Jug Haul T,TR 
Lou Reed  T 
Pit of Despair, The T,S 
Scantily Trad T 
Slot Machine S 
Smokin' John (submitted as Roof Rack) T 
Sweet Petite S 
Turning Point S 

Bulge to Groove 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Diana Rogers? Harald Harb?
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The approximate line of this contrived route.

Description 

This is another line on which to play to extend your visit to Mill Creek Crag. It catches your eye as you stand below Freeway and ask yourself if this is doable. Yes, it is, but protecting it on lead safely is not as clear, since some of the features you would use for your hands might be the same ones you'd use for your pro.

Start up similarly as for Freeway, but veer left under the bulge utilizing nice underclings. The chunk of rock on the corner/arete that you may use wiggles, but it didn't come out easily. Pull out to the left of the arete, move up to a stance. Small cams could be set in the groove. Continue up to the left of the groove up a few feet, then move right into the groove and up to the ledge. From the ledge, you can finish on the balancy 5.10 double cracks to the anchors.

Location 

This starts as for Freeway and quickly veers left.

Protection 

You can TR this off of the anchors for Freeway. It is likely you could lead this on gear to a #1 Camalot size with an emphasis on smaller cams (note, I haven't tried this yet).

Note, there is no fixed anchor on the ledge 40 feet up.


Comments on Bulge to Groove Add Comment
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By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Jun 18, 2012

This is a fun start for stronger climbers. It can be protected with cams up to the exit onto the left slab. After that, you are on your own. The left slab is nice climbing about 5.9 but unprotected. Diana has first ascent. We did it on TR yesterday, it's a nice variation if you are top roping Freeway.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 19, 2012

Interestingly, Doug found a low traverse to the arete which made it feel 5.8 to him.
By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Aug 16, 2013

If you go straight up as far as possible and then left onto the face, it's a good pull more than 5.8, but there are many variations on this Freeway Wall. I call it a wall because there are so many options from one set of chains.

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