Bugaboo Spire Rock Climbing
The Vowell Group and Glacier from the Bugaboo-Cres...
This is one of the most impressive spires in all of the Bugaboo's hence the name. From the Applebee campground the highly visible east face looms steep and nearly blank with only half a dozen or so routes. Viewed from the top of Crescent Spire one gets a great look at the classic Northeast ridge and the entire spire as it shoots into the sky like a sharks tooth.
Most of the routes on the Bugaboo Spire are accessed via the Crescent glacier which is an easy hike from the Kain hut and Applebee campground. From the Kain hut head north toward the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and turn off before the Col as if heading to the Crescent Spire. From Applebee hike north out of camp onto the moraine and follow the same route as if going to Crescent Spire. The east face is obvious on both approaches. To get to the Northeast ridge follow the same approach as above and continue up slabs to the Bugaboo-Crescent Col. All remaining routes on the south and west faces are approached by the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col.
Climbing Season For the Columbia Mountains area.
Weather station 4.7 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Bugaboo Spire
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Bugaboo Spire
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Bugaboo Spire:
Featured Route For Bugaboo Spire
Kain Route (South Ridge) 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b North America
: ... : Bugaboo Spire
By way of the N. lateral moraine of Bugaboo glacier and snowfield to the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col above which the S. arete is followed. Scramble up ledges easily for more then 500' to the base of a steep chimney where the rope is put on. Climb chimney (120';two leads; strenuous) to crest of ridge leading to base of formidable gendarme. Two leads on the gendarme reach groove where belay is established for the crux. Leader moves up vertical wall in cracks and over left-hand corner...[more] Browse More Classics in International
The summit of Bugaboo Spire as seen from near the ...
Rappelling from the summit of Bugaboo Spire.
Bugaboo Spire from near the saddle between it and ...
BETA PHOTO: Route Overlay Descent from Bugaboo Spire.
BETA PHOTO: Setting up the gendarme rappel during our descent ...
Bugaboo and the Crescent Spires
View from rope up ledge on Northeast ridge of Buga...
Rob rappeling, Snow Patch Spire in background
BETA PHOTO: Copied from MCR Reports (Association of Canadian M...
Sunrise alpenglow on the East Face of Bugaboo Spir...
Bugaboo Spire taken from the wrong approach chimne...
BETA PHOTO: Bugaboo Spire seen from the SW
Summit panorama looking southwest
Bugaboo Spire, looking at Northeast ridge.