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Bug Bananas 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Olin Johnson
Page Views: 999
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Another one of Amy leading.

  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A fairly casual line that starts up broken, lower-angled rock, then steepens a bit and provides positive edges. A semi-detached flake appears just left of the bolt line midway through the climb and holds provided by the flake keep the climbing easy.


    6 closely spaced bolts, ring anchors. The first bolt is out-of-line (to the left) with the rest and not particularly useful.


    Follow the trail on the east of the streambed up the canyon. After crossing the streambed the trail turns right and heads among a number of large evergreen trees.

    This route will appear on the right side of a west-facing wall directly in front of you.

    Photos of Bug Bananas Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bug Bananas 5.7
    BETA PHOTO: Bug Bananas 5.7
    Rock Climbing Photo: My wife Amy leading.
    My wife Amy leading.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Jones on Bug Bananas.
    Jeff Jones on Bug Bananas.

    Comments on Bug Bananas Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Toby Hazelbaker
    Jul 31, 2009

    While this route looks inviting - beware. The flake is quite loose, chossy all around, and the anchors are rickety. The left hanger spins and is drilled amongst a spider's web of cracks and the right bolt has had rock break out from around it. Sad to see such careless bolting - a real waste of some good anchors.
    By Christopher Sorensen
    From: Provo, UT
    Sep 5, 2009
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I didn't feel that this was all that badly bolted, but it wasn't the best bolting job, that's for sure. The anchors looked ok to me and I wasn't worried using them.

    However, that flake is completely hollow and the whole route relies on it. It will come off one day, and I feel bad for whoever is belaying the person who knocks it off, because that will go badly. Unfortunately, the whole route relies on this flake and wouldn't be anything without it. That said, I thought the route was fun and interesting, with some weird slopey foot holds that make you want to double check before you put your weight on them.
    By Christian "crisco" Burrell
    From: PG, Utah
    Sep 5, 2009

    I wonder why they didn't make this line go all the way to the top of the wall...
    By shawn Kenney
    From: Draper,Utah
    May 6, 2014

    I thought the route was fun. The bolts looked fairly new so maybe someone replaced them.
    By Randy Covington
    Jul 13, 2014

    I climbed this route today while wondering around looking for the other routes in the area. The left anchor nut was finger tight, I noticed it spinning as I was clipping the bolt. Tried to tighten it a bit. Fun route if I wasn't thinking about that flake coming off.
    By Brett Barrus
    Apr 21, 2016

    I climbed this route yesterday. All of the anchors on the way up seemed fine, but the 2 top anchors are a bit sketchy. The left bolt/nut seemed tight, but the anchor can be spun around on the bolt. The right nut was loose enough that I could tighten it back up with my fingers! I'm going to try and torque them down soon.

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