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04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buffy T 
Bugaboo T 
Charlotte's Crack T 
Clamdigger Crack T 
Continental Cracks T 
Desperado T,S 
Equinox T 
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 
Good Omens T 
Harmonic Convergence T 
Heathrow - Ice Climb 
Hotel California T 
Joe's Route - Ice Climb 
Obscure Object of Desire S 
Old Spice T 
Old Stud S 
Pandora T,S 
Poison Ivy T 
Queen Charlotte T 
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)  T 
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 
White Streak T 
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 

Buffy 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 14
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on Jul 4, 2017

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Description 

This route is broken by a big ledge in the middle, and it's slow to dry. However, it also has some sections of good climbing.

Climb up the left (smaller) of the two flares on the short slab. Up and a bit left on the big sloping ledge to the headwall, and climb the obvious flake-crack on its right end to a big ledge. The anchor is far back on the ledge, behind the oak tree.

Location 

Start just left of Hotel California (about 20' left of Equinox), on the left side of the big blocks, directly below the left (smaller) flare on the short slab. The route finishes up a crack near the right end of the headwall on the left, below a tree ledge. Rappel from the Becky-Joy anchor at the back of the ledge, behind the tree.

Protection 

Standard Barrett's rack. Two-bolt belay-rappel anchor at the top.


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