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Buffalo Wall

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Tatanka T 

Buffalo Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 36.14438, -115.50711 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: J. Thompson on May 29, 2005


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The Buffalo wall sits majestically at the top of the north fork of Ice box canyon. The Buffalo wall and the Rainbow wall offer the only big wall aid experineces in Red Rock. The wall has 3 reported routes and a rumored 4th. All of the routes currently have 2 or fewer ascents. The Original Buffalo wall route is still waiting for a second ascent. The wall has a long and somewhat complicated approach lending to the reason it has so few ascent's. The Wall get's it's name from an image that appears in the varnish resembling, yep a Buffalo.

Getting There 

There are 2 ways to approach the Buffalo wall.
The first, and traditional way, to approach is to go straight up Ice box Canyon. This involves some 5th class climbing but is the fastest.
Start at the Ice Box trailhead and follow the standard trail into the canyon. After the section of boulder hopping you will reach an impasse. Climb up the right hand side of the canyon taking the path of least resistance...there is sometimes a fixed rope here.
After this first step head back left into the main canyon again and continue up for aways. Whem you reach another impasse climb up the right hand canyon/gully, again weaving around a bit to find the path of least resistance. Climb this gully to it's top on a big terrace. scramble right a short distance until you can follow the terrace back left and back into the Main drainage. Pick your way up the main drainage, climbing 1 5th class section with a fixed rope, until you reach the base of the wall. Without packs this can be done in an hour and a half.

The second way to approach goes up a formation know as "2 Fools chute". See the picture on this page to locate "2FC".
Again start at the Ice box trailhead. Just before you head into the mouth of the canyon you will see 2FC on the right. Bushwack over to the start of the chute. go up 2FC with a bit of scrambling here and there. Near the top of the Chute look for the obvious place to head left on the big terrace, there are usually Cairns. Head left and follow the terrace all the way over to the the main drainage coming in just above the fifth class climbing mentioned in the other appraoch. There is a bit of scrambling and easy route finding involved. It helps to locate the obvious terrace from the parking lot. The terrace is a few hundred feet up on the nroth side of Ice box.

The descent from the top of the wall is actually very easy.
Head south west and locate the only spur ridge that goes all the way to the bottom of the canyon. There is an excellent climbers trail heading down this ridge. Do not get sucked into any drainage's! The trail stays on the ridge the entire way. The Rocky Gap road is in the bottom of the canyon and will lead you back to the loop road. Leaving a car back there is advised. High clearance only.

Climbing Season

For the Icebox Canyon area.

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Buffalo Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Buffalo Wall

Tatanka 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 R  Nevada : Red Rock : ... : Buffalo Wall
Pitch 1: Climb the slab leading to a good ledge at the base of obvious overhanging corner. Belay from 1 good bolt and a big cam. 5.6, 120ft.Pitch 2: Climb the steep corner/dihedral above. At the top of the corner follow a short bolt ladder past a small tree. Climb past a couple more bolts to reach the anchor, which is 2 good bolts and an okay stance. A2+, 130ft.Pitch 3: Face climb up and right, passing a huge detached block. Head for the obvious crack above. Follow this crack to a short left war...[more]   Browse More Classics in Nevada

Photos of Buffalo Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The majestic buffalo wall.  The only 3 routes on t...
BETA PHOTO: The majestic buffalo wall. The only 3 routes on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Buffalo Wall overview from upper Icebox Canyon.
BETA PHOTO: Buffalo Wall overview from upper Icebox Canyon.
Rock Climbing Photo: Two Fools Chute West wall of Ice Box Canyon, well ...
BETA PHOTO: Two Fools Chute West wall of Ice Box Canyon, well ...

Comments on Buffalo Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 29, 2005
Rumor is that a better way to approach is by hiking up the backside, from the rocky gap road, and rappelling the wall. I haven't done it, and don't know anyone who has, but it SOUNDS like a good idea!!!

By 10b4me
Jun 29, 2005
You can scramble up Two Fools Chute and aviod all class 5 and 4 climbing to the base of Buffalo Wall. This chute is well before where the trail descends into the wash.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 2, 2005
Two fools chute huh??? Sounds's about some more info??? Maybe a photo?
By Greg Gibson
From: Napa, Ca
Jun 10, 2009
Gents, It is also said that none of these routes have ever been freed. Lets see any of the proclaimed hardmen free this area.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 10, 2009
according to Handren, two routes have been freed:

Buffalo Soldiers @ .12c R
Original Route @ .13b/c for reference.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 11, 2009
Buffalo soldiers was freed like what...2 years ago?

I think The OG just went this year...with some major variations...I think????? Can someone confirm?

Also I'm fairly certain that the true line of Tatanka won't be freed. Some of those bolt ladders are both blank and steep. I know it has been rappelled by the free climbing crew, apparently they think it could be done but would with MAJOR variations.

I'd love to be proven wrong!


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