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C. Middle and West Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back on Track T 
Belay Brothers Bounce Back, The T 
Blunt Arete to Exit T,TR 
Buffalo Soldier S 
Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) S 
Offwidth Corner T,TR 
Old Pirates S 
Please Pick Up Your Trash T 
Small Axe S 
Three Little Birds S 

Buffalo Soldier 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Adam Huxley and Chuck Fitch, August 2013
Page Views: 1,739
Submitted By: Josh on Mar 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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BETA PHOTO: Start of the route.

Description 

Buffalo Soldier is a steep crack that joins Lyin’ Like a Lion partway up. Protect the crack with small to medium cams, if you like, plus two bolts. When you reach the face above the overhang, break right and follow the bolts.

Location 

This is the leftmost route on the Middle Wall. Start right where the approach trail arrives at the wall - just look up and follow the crack.

Protection 

7 bolts (+ optional cams) + 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Buffalo Soldier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the 2nd bolt.
Near the 2nd bolt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam, 6/14/2014.
Adam, 6/14/2014.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down on the upper slab portion.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down on the upper slab portion.

Comments on Buffalo Soldier Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Mar 29, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The transition over the overhang to the face above is certainly the crux. There is one good hold here, but it is committing to bring your feet up and over. This is certainly a fun route.
By A. Bandos
Apr 5, 2015

Fun climb. Didn't use gear, but that crack would eat up plenty of cams.

We thought that the sequence between bolt 1 and 2 was more cruxy than the roof. Feet are a little smeary and the crack tends to keep you off balance .
By Matt Pierce
From: Denver, CO
Apr 12, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route with some tricky moves down low. We didn't use any gear. The only downside to this route is the moves to the right where you join the other route. It was a little disappointing to run out of bolts and have to move right to join the other line. Extending these bolts is prudent to avoid rope drag.
By Josh
From: Golden, CO
Apr 16, 2015

Glad you liked the route, Matt. The FA party did look at continuing the line straight up, as opposed to breaking right to join the adjacent route, but the rock above loses angle significantly and is more grassy and loose. Lyin' Like a Lion definitely provides the cleaner and more consistent finish.
By Bal Rau
From: Denver, Colorado
Jun 15, 2015

This is sport, not trad.
By Johnny Muir-Addleman
From: Bishop
Sep 22, 2015

I climbed this and felt totally safe without using my gear, the first bolt is not that high. Although pulling the lip took a couple tries, I seemed well-protected with the 2 clips. More pro is safer, but the cams are optional for a confident leader IMHO. There are certainly good placements to be had but not really a mixed route like The Belay Brothers. Fun climb, great crack.
By Baumer
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 15, 2016

This is a well-protected sport route, no need for cams.

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