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Buffalo Pit

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Roadside Distraction S 
Buffalo Chips T 
Buffalo Crack T 
Buffalo Soldier S 
Lonesome Buffalo S 
Mr. Buffoolo To You S 
Nicely Stacked T 
Out Of Order S 
Perfect Egg Drop, The TR 
Psych Ward S 
Rainy Day T 
Sodbuster S 
Something Fishy T 
Sunnyside Up S 
Tatanka S 
Vault 713 S 
Vulture Breath  S 
White Buff Fellow S 

Buffalo Pit Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 734'
Location: 43.80386, -71.84992 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,038
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 29, 2008
Forecast:
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84° | 61°
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81° | 57°
Thursday

63° | 41°
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Saturday

58° | 39°
Sunday

63° | 41°
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A look down the left side of the Pit. Even the ro...

Description 

The buffalo pit has undergone a huge transformation in the last couple of seasons (2016/2017) mostly thanks to the Rumney Climbers Association purchase of the "Final Frontier" land which included the Buffalo Pit. Of course Team Tough was behind the face-lift for the crag, those guys can transform a pile of moss and lichen in to a world class crag with amazing efficiency.

Currently there are routes from 5.5-5.12 and perhaps some projects that will be even harder. These new routes will eventually be added here and will be included in the 2017 guidebook. At present the new parking area is being constructed so we are holding off on detailing everything so to avoid parking problems.

If you do venture over to the Pit please be sure to park well off of the road and out of the way of the folks working on the parking lot.

Getting There 

Drive past the main parking lots and continue for about a mile. There is currently a clearing where a good sized parking lot is being constructed. The Buffalo Pit can be seen up the hill away from the road and there is a trail on the right hand side of the lot when facing away from the road. About 1 minute up the trail to the cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.8 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',0],['5.10',4],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Buffalo Pit

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Buffalo Pit:
Rainy Day   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 150'   
Buffalo Crack   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
Buffalo Soldier   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Buffalo Pit

Featured Route For Buffalo Pit
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the freshly cleaned line

Buffalo Soldier 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a  New Hampshire : *Rumney : Buffalo Pit
Once sadly overlooked this route will now see the attention it deserves. This was the original route at the Pit but it has seen a facelift to bring it up to the quality of the routes newly developed around it. So it was scrubbed, re-bolted and dangerous loose rocks were removed. Start below a roof that forms a hanging corner. climb around the roof in to the corner with difficulty to gain a nice rest. Once you are well rested climb out left on to a steep slab where many of the holds seem to face ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Comments on Buffalo Pit Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 4, 2017
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jul 15, 2010
I hiked out to here today to look around.

When looking up from the road the is a "cove" of rock to the right of the main section of Buffalo Pit. It isn't a tall area but there is a two bolt sport climb on the left side of the cove and potential slab climbs on the right side. Does anyone know about this sport route? It climbs a blunt arete and maybe 25 feet tall, maybe a little shorter...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 11, 2013
According to the guidebook, this would be the only sport route at 5.11d.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Aug 11, 2013
I've seen that route too, all lonely out there.... it'd not the 11d (not in the book at all), looks more like 5.9 or 5.10.
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Aug 11, 2014
This weekend, I climbed my last two routes at this crag and to be honest, the only one worth going for is the 11d sport route. The 10c would also be good if it was not from the vegetated ramps on the approaches or the lack of anchor to lower down. We rappelled from a dead tree. Sketchy!!!
Unless a few braves gives this crag a lot, a lot and a lot of love, it could be used as a garden to grow plants and trees...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Dec 16, 2014
Barefoot (5.10 face right of the corner on Rainy Day)... awaiting official MP documentation. :)
By Brentheden Bourassa
From: Waterville Valley, NH
Jul 15, 2017
Just climbed here today and this place is amazing! Hands down the best feeling rock I've ever climbed at Rumney. Way more routes than listed here. Hopefully they made it in the new guide
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 17, 2017
The Pit has had some recent development and fixing up, but also the Corral, the area Matt Wallace mention in his earlier comment, has been developed more. I think that must have been where you were. The information is not here yet, but Ward Smith's latest guide (just out) has it. The parking area is being developed so there is little parking atm. Please do not pile up along the road in the mean time.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 17, 2017
My understanding is that the pit and Corral areas had not been added/updated so to avoid too much attention as we got the parking area worked out. I am happy to write up some of the new stuff if it's time. Mark? Ward? we still waiting?

Ps. I Just added a new 5.10 today that wont make it in to the book :X
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 17, 2017
Probably good to wait a little more until construction is done, or it could be a mess, especially with the rain. Feel free to delete my comments.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 17, 2017
IDK, once the book is in people's hands its all over anyway haha. Folks should just know that it is very important to keep well off the road if you head out there. Also stay out of the lot and out of the way if there is work being done on the parking lot project. I will hold off on adding descriptions at least until the book drops.
By S. Neoh
Sep 4, 2017
What is the current parking situation at BP? Conservatively, how many cars does the parking lot hold? Thanks!

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