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Buffalo Gun T 
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Buffalo Gun 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Murf, R.Bishop 10/2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Murf on Oct 9, 2004

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Description 

This route is on a formation just above the main Silerado group. The start of Buffalo Gun is about 70' directly behind and somewhat left of the finish for The Golddigger. It starts on large blocks next to a large tree. It is the obvious splitter which starts wide and ends as a hand crack.

Big hands, fists, hip scums and other fun tricks are required to bypass wide sections with hand jamming in between. The top third is fun hand jamming to the top. The climbing is physical and non-stop jamming. If you or your hands are soft, you might want to tape as the rock, while solid, is rough.

I would say it is harder and more physical than the Golddigger below it. 3 of 5 *'s if you enjoy physical big hands climbing.

Protection 

Doubles from #.75 Camalot up, with a single #3.5 and #4.

No anchor exists; descend either via a jump on back of the north (climber's right) edge of the formation or a simul-rap. Note the jump has a 35-foot drop if flubbed.


Comments on Buffalo Gun Add Comment
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By Murf
Oct 11, 2004

I find it hard to believe that this crack hadn't been climbed before. If anyone knows if it has, correct FA information please.
By Steven Powers
Nov 16, 2004

how far is the jump?
By Murf
Nov 17, 2004

I stink at distance, but the jump looks pretty easy. I didn't do it, I simul rap'd over the formation.

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