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Buffalo Crude T 
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Buffalo Crude 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Mark Leonard, Mark Dalen, Dave Baltz
New Route: Yes
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: Mark Dalen on Dec 29, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Buffalo Crude on Sunset Buttress to the left of Ty...

Description 

Impossible to recall in detail but the route follows a natural line of cracks, dihedrals and flakes trending toward the obvious dihedral on the rim of Sunset Buttress. There is a bolt just below the belay at the top of the first pitch. Pitch Two goes up and left to a layback dihedral. Traverse right on flakes to a belay below a small roof. This crux pitch goes up and over the roof on face holds, then angles left to a flake belay. Pitch Five is possibly a second crux, more face climbing up to the large ledge below the dihedral. Finish up the dihedral which is mildly vegetated. Following its first ascent in 1978 the route was free-soloed by Dave Baltz in 1979 who also added another route (Dave's Solo, unmarked) somewhere to the right.

Location 

Buffalo Crude lies on Sunset Buttress so named because it catches the last rays of the sun every day in summer. Descend down slabs to the north rounding back down into the cirque.

Protection 

Standard rack, mainly small stuff. One bolt was placed low down. Crux pitch 4 is runout and 5 isn't much better.


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