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Buffalo Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Hammond, Tom Armstong and Tom Bowker 11/84
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 26, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: you know you wanna climb it...

Description 

Steep and interesting with solid gear. A diamond in the rough for sure. Yeah this crag in it's current condition is a bomb for the most part but This route is well worth the side trip if you like to climb trad routes at this grade. If you've done Black Jack Crack 5.10d and Very Nice Crack 5.10d this is the next one on your list.

Pitch 1: Whatever you want to get to the ledge haha. A good choice is to climb the first pitch of Nicely Stacked 5.7 by overcoming a low roof on the right side of the crag to the right of the steep stuff. At the brushy ledge work your way left scrambling to the base of the sweet looking steep crack.

Pitch 2: 5.10c Clip the rusty pin and make strenuous moves in to the crack and jam your way up the right leaning crack. The left foot can follow the crack but one of the cruxes is dealing with the lack of foot holds on the right. The Crack is great but the wall is so uncharacteristically smooth it makes things very interesting. Work your way in to an off width gaining a rest before making a cool move left to a stance and easily on to the top.


Location 

In the middle of the crag starting from the mid-way ledge. Look for a pretty obvious crack. You get there by doing a short pitch to the ledge and traversing the to the base of the climb.

Protection 

One pin and a regular rack will get you by just fine. There is a new bolted anchor (c2016)


Comments on Buffalo Crack Add Comment
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By campbellness
Aug 27, 2017

woohoo ha this humbled me. Great climb great gear but it will make you work.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 13, 2017

Awesome route and very well worth the approach if you love trad and climb the grade.

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