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Buffalo Chips 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: tom bowker, lee baert, alan hunter 12/84
Page Views: 441
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 4, 2012

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This is perhaps the funniest route I have climbed in my attempt to do as many Rumney guidebook routes as I can.

The guide says, "This is supposed to be 'A corner directly above a bushy ledge.' If you can find it please let me know where it is. Everything I saw looked like it needed a chainsaw"

That almost sums it up. Though I did find it, climb it, and even convinced a friend to follow it purely for laughs. We didn't bring a chainsaw but could have used it. The description can't get across the silliness of climbing this line which is fun in it's own way. Most won't get the point but for those who do, here is a description.

I started by climbing a tree, slinging a branch for pro, before stepping on to a slab with 3 inch thick moss and struggling not to slip until i could scramble to a dead tree. Climbed over the dead tree and on to a ledge. The corner is obscured by a good size conifer tree. I stepped around the tree placed a small cam and started up the corner which would indeed feel 5.5 if it was clean and dry, it was not. From a stance i fiddled in funky gear and made a slippery step up and left to a small stance. I slung a small tree growing from the top of the corner then used it to gain the bushy ledge above. Grabbing fist fulls of brush i dragged my self on to the ledge laughing (which is why I do this sort of thing, it's a good laugh). From there, there was a surprisingly trick move through small bushes in to a fingerlock in the only piece of exposed rock and another fist full of plants to a tree belay :)

it would be possible to continue up the slab above for 30ft to the top but we just walked off to the right.


The farthest route to the right. Look for the very mossy slab leading to, well, filth...


regular rack.

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By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Nov 5, 2012

Lee, sounds like another Rumney hidden classic ;)
By joshua corbett
From: Wolfeboro NH
Nov 5, 2012

This sounds just like a route I did this weekend over in Conway
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Nov 5, 2012

I can guarantee that this route wasn't as kind ;)
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 24, 2014

A couple years ago I set myself a goal. Send every single route from 5.0 to 5.12d of the 2009 guidebook.
I have to admit that so far, I've climbed no star routes that were suprises to me.
This one is a true nightmare. I hope not to find too many of these.
Less than 50 routes to go below 5.12.
Could not even see nor find Big Worm this week at Triple Corners.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 25, 2014

It's a fun game :)
I'm psyched to hear we are at about the same point :)
after reading this i checked, i have 34 to go!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 25, 2014

You have 34 to go below 5.12?
How many 5.12 do you still have to send?
Is your count related to the 2009 guidebook?
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 25, 2014

oops... that was including 5.12s... and yes i go by the 2009 guide book... specifically i have remaining: one 5.9, one 5.10, six 5.11s and i guess that leaves 26 5.12s...
you are cruising along with your goal! i started a long time ago... I wish i could climb more this season i would have been getting lots done if i wasnt spending all of my time building my house...

as for really crap routes, there are a few but many are being cleaned up and bolted lately... others like big worm were a bit cleaner when i did them and have grown in... Buffalo chips is the worst though by far haha...

Rock Climbing Photo: this is where im at
this is where im at
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jul 25, 2014

You are much ahead of me. Congrats Lee!
Here is what I still have to send:
-14 5.9 and below
-15 5.10
-18 5.11
-55 5.12
Hopefully I can finish before I'm too old.
The dots means that I have climbed the route. Some of them are not sent yet...

Rock Climbing Photo: First Page
First Page

Rock Climbing Photo: Second page
Second page

As you can see, I am an older Canadian version of Lee Hanschee...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 25, 2014

you are well on your way!
this kind of goal isn't for everybody but its nice to know i'm not the only one.

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