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Buffalo Chips 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jack Hunt, Norm Slade, 1992
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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ABS just before the crux bulge.


Just before the first prominant drainage system from the right is a blocky formation with a classic long slab. Buffalo Chips runs the middle of the slab in 70 feet of fine, technical smearing with a bulgy crux shortly before the anchor. This line offers some of the best moderate climbing in the canyon and is recommended for anyone getting started on the sharp end or working through the numbers game.


Half a dozen draws and a rope.

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By Larry Earley
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 3, 2003

This is an ok 5.9 but defintely only one star. Start is 5.7 with flakes that will break off someday soon. Top half is a nice quality rock 5.9. The rock formation is cool looking. One of the few 9s in Rock Garden so its ok for moderate leaders.
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 13, 2007

Not a lot of fun. One star is generous, but one must warm up on something.
By ErikaNW
From: Golden, CO
May 26, 2014

This anchor was replaced as part of the 2014 Penitente project weekend.

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