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Buehler's Day Off 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Patrick O'Donnell
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Dec 1, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: basic topo

Description 

25m up canyon from Atomic Gecko and just before the canyon opens up to the Big Horn wall there is a thin desperate crack on the left. Bolts protect bouldery moves through the bottom. a desperate dihedral leads to a stance and final roof crack. bring several pieces for the roof crack. one bolt protects the final crack moves.

Location 

25m up canyon from Atomic Gecko.

Protection 

bolts and a few pieces of gear.


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By Alex Shainman
Sep 13, 2016

The rock quality doesn't start out great and the cheater-stone pile is a bit wobbly but I think this is a very good pitch - it's so different than everything else in the canyon. There's no just reaching through the crux on this one...You gotta tech-stem burl it out! Most will only need 2 or 3 cams in the #.5 - #2 Camalot range for the crack before the last bolt. No gear necessary over the roof. Go do it!!!

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