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The Convent
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Buddha's Delight T 
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Whore House T 

Buddha's Delight 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott McLeod, Andrew Wilder
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Fall
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Scott McLeod on Apr 5, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Location

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Buddha's Delight is among the best climbs I have ever done. It is a stunning line, particularly pitch three, the "Buddha's Belly" pitch. There are several pitches on this climb longer than 35 meters, along with an overhanging pitch, so the best decent is Choir Boyz. If you plan to project it, bring a tag line so you can make it back to the anchors on pitches 3 and 4.

The climb starts on the looker's right third of the Convent, in the large, right facing dihedral. You will see a belay bolt next to a small roof.

Pitch One (30 M, 5.10+) - This pitch was originally a scary lead 'cuz it was full of detached flakes (which was our first inspiration to name it after Buddhism). Some bolts may seem unnecessary, but they were originally placed on lead due to dreadful gear in sketchy rock. However, it cleaned up nicely and became an awesome pitch, particularly moving past the “pinned” block. From the belay bolt, mantle up through the choss until you are below the corner (you can use a big cam here then leave it on the ground as the second cleans). Head up and right past a bolt for an exciting 5.10 face move, or stay left in the shattered corner past a pin for some 5.10 stemming. Gain the primary corner and move up past the bolts until you are below the block. This block is a bit intimidating, but we pinned it to the main wall with a 3 ft. rod of stainless steel, so it should be bomber. Use the face holds on the block to move up and right to the anchor. (Be gentle with the holds because it is not the best sandstone, and underclinging the block is closer to 5.12.)

Pitch Two (30 M, 5.10-) – This is a stellar dihedral. Classic desert climbing, very fun.

Pitch Three (37 M, 5.12) – The Buddha’s Belly! It is not everyday you find a bulging headwall in the desert, so prepare yourself for a wild ride and a unique desert climbing experience! Head up the crack 15’ or so, until it kind of runs out. Make a moderate but airy move left until you can gain the crack splitting the Buddha’s Belly. Move up through the nice hands as it gets steeper. Now for the business- make your way through the crux with thin hands as the crack cuts right through the face. Keep your wits about you as the crack heads up again, in fingers and tight hands, and get back above your feet. Put those blue camalots to use in the upper section through the small roof. The belay is off to the left, and if you desire you can place a cam high in the crack before leaning left to grab the anchor. You cannot rappel this pitch without a tag line tied to the anchors below, seriously.

Pitch Four (40 M, 5.11) – This would be a stellar line in the creek any day, so don’t think the fun is over! Start up the fun, mellow hand crack until it gains the headwall. Move through fun hands up the steep headwall as the crack gets thinner and thinner. Enjoy the “zig zags.” And be sure to look around for foot holds outside of the crack. As the crack fades, delicately move to the left until you are below the right facing corner. Remember to save some hand sized gear for this upper section. Gain the ledge and move left to the anchor. This is a 40 M pitch, so keep that in mind if you want to rap it.

Pitch Five (25 M, 5.9) – there are some fun moves at the beginning of this pitch, but towards the end move with care through the big blocks. Move up and left through the horizontal features passing a fixed pin and a bolt. Then head straight up through the loose blocks until the comfortable belay ledge.

Pitch Six (10 M, 5.8) – this is more like a half pitch, and is set back a ways from pitch 5, which makes it difficult to link. Move up through the 5.8 hand crack until you gain the summit!

Decent – again, the best decent is Choir Boyz on the north end of the convent. Given the long pitches, and the overhang on the Buddha’s Belly, it is tricky to rappel, even with a tag line, because you would have to leave it tied on pitch three, making the pitch 4 rappel tricky as it is 40 meters. So, walk north 15 minutes or so, until you gain the highest point on the NORTH end of the Convent. Then, head South (towards Castleton) down the hill for about 50 yds. and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. From the cairn you will see a distinct ledge and a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. One 70 gets you down. IMPORTANT - stick to the corner when arriving at last rap station, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze.

Location 

This climb is on the looker's right third of the Convent. It is in the predominant right facing dihedral, providing it wonderful views of the La Sals. The start is obvious with a plaque and a belay bolt. You will also be able to see the obvious Buddha's Belly pitch above you.

Protection 

This climb takes a lot of gear. You have every right to be skeptical, but below is the list of gear we took even when we knew the route well..

1 set stoppers (optional)
1-2 small TCUs to orange
4 ea. #.5, .75, 1 Camelots
5-6 #2 Camalots (yes, as crazy as that sounds)
4-5 #3 Camalots
1 #5 Camalot (optional, protects exposed move off the deck, then left at base)
12-15 quickdraws
1 tagline (optional, but necessary if you plan to project the belly)


Photos of Buddha's Delight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Not a bad view...
Not a bad view...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Wilder on the thrilling crux of Buddha'...
Andrew Wilder on the thrilling crux of Buddha'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Plaque
Plaque
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 1-3
BETA PHOTO: Pitches 1-3
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch Three - Buddha's Belly!
Pitch Three - Buddha's Belly!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch One and Two
BETA PHOTO: Pitch One and Two
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch One
BETA PHOTO: Pitch One
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo

Comments on Buddha's Delight Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott McLeod
Apr 5, 2017

I should add, this route did not go free on lead in 2012. I have no idea what has happened in the last 5 years, I'd guess it has gone free, but if not, time to get after it!
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 5, 2017

Looks great! I'm sure putting that line up was a blast- makes me want to get down there:) Thanks for sharing.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Apr 6, 2017

Nothing over #2's?
By Scott McLeod
Apr 7, 2017

Woops, good catch! I updated the gear list. Thanks!
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Apr 7, 2017

Darn...

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