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An Eye For an Eye T 
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 
Just The Fad 
Panacea Roof S 
Remedy S 
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 
Walk The Line T 

Buddha Bukstein Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,135
Submitted By: Tradiban on Jun 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Tall climb with the full top out. Start in the crack and go slightly right to under the roof. Go right of the roof straight up to a ledge. Find a crack system on your right (look to your right for the rap chains) and take it to the top.


Crack system between "Remedy" and "Eye for an Eye".


Solid rack up to #4 C4. Rap chains to the right and down from the top out.

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By Tradiban
Jun 17, 2010

Sure this has been done but I gave it a name, please let me know if it is known as something different.

Be careful of some loose rock higher up. We rapped off the chains to the right of the route with room to spare on a 70m, looked like a 60m would make it but barely.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 23, 2010

The beginning of this looked a bit pumpy for a 5.8.

How did you start this out Nick?
By Tradiban
Jun 23, 2010

Straight up the crack bro. Definite technical crux at the start. "Old School" 5.8
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 23, 2010

That's what I thought. Didnt look 5.8 at all at the beginning. It was pretty much blank on either side of the crack for like 15 feet. I'll give it a go when Paul goes back there with me.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
May 25, 2012

You can take the early exit left and hit the chains for An Eye For An Eye. I wouldn't suggest it, as the route gets pretty damn awesome by that roof. Also, there was a huge and funky bee or wasp or hornet hive thing by the anchors, so we took the overhanging crack left of the anchors. 5.7ish stuff on junky rock with decent pro. Fantastic route in my book.
By Tradiban
May 26, 2012

That's how I originally finished this, before the bees nest was there. Were there bees on it? Check my pic on the main page to see it in it's full glory.
By Josh Olson
From: Durango, CO
May 26, 2012

You haven't seen it in its full glory. I'll have to go back to get a picture.
By Alex Zucca
From: University Heights
May 28, 2017

After the second roof section, this gets a little spicy and really chossy/mossy.

If you plan to have someone follow or TR this route, place a #3 cam in the horizontal crack on the wall in front of you when you top out on lead. Look DOWN and to the right and you will see the chains. Make an anchor there as you hang on the #3 and then lower down. The #3 seriously helps with rope drag and protects your follower. It's still gonna suck for your follower to downclimb unprotected to the chains after they clean the #3.

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