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Bucky's Shoulder 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 162
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Aug 4, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Start of the route. Photo David Price.


The route parallels Bucky Blue on the right, joining it only for a very short distance below the large dead tree. (Not at all if the left/corner version of Bucky Blue is considered.)

Finding the start: From bottom of Bucky Blue traverse right, but stop short of the next large corner. Bucky's Right Shoulder goes to and past the right end of the prominent roof.

Pitch 1 goes straight up a slab to a band of more featured ground surrounding a vertical seam/crack with a couple of small trees growing in its higher section. A single bolt visible to the left of the band. (You can clip it or not. It's a bit to the left of the route and belongs to Barb's Roof.) Head straight up just right of the roof to a ledge. (I placed my anchor bit to the left here.)

Pitch 2: Continue up the next slab along the same feature. Protection is less here, but the climbing is easy. Once past the next ledge (and the vegetation on it), go up what continues to be a band of featured rock, now much narrower but with some protection possibilities still available, to easy slab. You are now on the "tree" version of Bucky and can take the crack system to the large tree.

Pitch 3, direct version: From the tree go up and right on walkable terrain to the next right facing corner, then climb up the corner. Protect and start traversing along good crack well short of the large roof above you. The crack will end at about the level of the end of the roof. Step up and belay from the ledge next to the end of the roof. The pitch is short, but making it longer results in significant rope drag.

Pitch 3, head-wall version: Walk from the tree right along wide vegetated ledges to an area below a head wall (see image). Start up along the sickle-shaped crack left of the ridge line. It goes up vertically at first over a featured, blocky-almost terrain up the distinct bulge (this is the steepest part of the route and the crux). After about 20 feet, it turns left and leads to a ledge. Traverse left on the ledge to a bottom of a right-facing corner. (This is the end of the direct version of Pitch 3, but starting from here you do not need to belay from this location, you can combine pitches 3 and 4.)

Pitch 4: Go up most or all of the corner then head left. This can be done on a slab with cracks (passing a cholla along the way) or higher over an area of boulders. Continue left over an easy slab to the top of Bucky Blue.


Bucky's Right Shoulder is located to the right of Barb's Roof with which it shares a start. Take the trail to Bucky Blue, then traverse right.

Rappel down Bucky Blue (two 60m ropes needed) or walk off the back side, as for Bucky Blue.


Standard rack.

Photos of Bucky's Shoulder Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Direct version of Pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Direct version of Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Head-wall version of Pitch 3, continuing into Pitc...
BETA PHOTO: Head-wall version of Pitch 3, continuing into Pitc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bucky Blue and Bucky's Right Shoulder.
BETA PHOTO: Bucky Blue and Bucky's Right Shoulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: Corner on last pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Corner on last pitch.

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