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YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c A0

Type:  Sport, Aid, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c A0 [details]
Page Views: 2,145
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Aug 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The A0 section. P.s. PM me if you are the two guys...


P1 is short and relatively easy, so linking together with P2 is quite straightforward. You'll get some rope drag but this can be minimized by not clipping all the A0 bolts at the overhang. A 2' sling to step in is helpful on the last bolt. Hey, if you're gonna cheat, you might as well make it easy!


Well bolted. Rappel 2X if you have one rope; 2 ropes (or POSSIBLY a 70m rope) will get you to the base in one rap.

Photos of Buckwheat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buckwheat in one long pitch.  Notice all the textu...
BETA PHOTO: Buckwheat in one long pitch. Notice all the textu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jimmy following for our multi-pitch day.
Jimmy following for our multi-pitch day.

Comments on Buckwheat Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Paashaus
From: Greensboro, North Carolina
Nov 10, 2010

What are the chances of this thing going free?
By Jim Lawyer
Nov 11, 2010

Going free? When I looked, slim to none.
By JEVanHorn
From: Geneva, NY
Jun 21, 2011

Hello all,
Just wondering for some more info about this route. A few friends and I are looking to do this this summer. But the aid section is baffling me a little. What exactly do they mean by aiding the roof bolted roof section? Im sorry for my ignorance, but I just don't understand it by just reading what's on the web page and the book. Thank you for your help.

By Jim Lawyer
Jun 21, 2011

JEVanHorn: Easy -- you pull on a couple bolts. No biggie.
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 2, 2012

A single 70m rope easily makes it to the belay ledge

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