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Buckeye Testpiece 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Hugh Loeffler, 1990
Page Views: 429
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006

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Forget the fact that you see a crack splitting the lower part of this face. Don't even think of protecting out of it. Best to top rope this route from Strick 9 anchors or the anchors on the ledge above the route with long slings (cordelette).

The climbing is fun, through cool holds and reachy moves for the grade. There is a bit of sand, especially on the lower part of the route, but this hardly detracts from the route.

The rock is soft, and the crack is friable.


On the face rifght of Strick 9. Climb left of a seam to the ledge.


More of an X-rated route or solo, which was how the FA was done.

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By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Feb 10, 2007

Super fun lead....Pull your shite together though

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