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Buckets of Jam 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Thurmond high bouldering 1986
Page Views: 302
Submitted By: AaronJ on Sep 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Why wouldn't you climb the wet dark crack inst...


A bouldery start will get you onto the plates that line the face, but you're not out of the bucket yet. Alternate jug hauling the face and thrutching in the wide crack until you come out to the ledge, where you can take a seat and consider your next move.

The anchor/descent is not ideal. You could scramble up the gully and try to find a tree to belay from, but I'm not sure what is available and getting down will be more of a chore. You can also traverse the ledge to the shiny new anchors two routes over and belay from there, but your follower might not be thrilled about the traverse.

Awkward route, but buckets of fun if you're into that kind of thing.


Large dihedral crack on the big ledge.


Standard rack, big stuff is probably a good idea.

Photos of Buckets of Jam Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buckets of Jam is the obvious dihedral crack
BETA PHOTO: Buckets of Jam is the obvious dihedral crack

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By Tom Atkins
From: Carbondale, Illinois
May 8, 2016

A large(and still living) Cedar tree provides a suitable anchor point above the upper gully section. This section is easy chimney but a fall would be less than ideal, though the same goes for traversing out to either Manhattan project or Bill & Tee's anchors; your choice.

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