|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 33'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Ronnie Miller & Tad Newman, 1998|
|Submitted By:||Russ Walling on Mar 14, 2007|
|Comments on Buckets of Blort||Add Comment|
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2007
Russ and I wonder up to the Oyster Bar area. First time for me and Russ's first time in 20 years. As we sit at the base of the Oyster Bar route we were sheltered by the wind. Unlike the devil storm that was blowing just 8 feet away around the corner.
The Oyster Bar and it's neighboring route were looking steep and crimpy so I opted for the unknown 3 bolt wonder on the wall to the right as a warm up. How bad could it be....3 bolts seemed easy enough, right?
I clip the first bolt no problem, but gaining the mandatory edge for your hand to gain access beyond the first bolt seems difficult. So much so, I stretch back down to my stance and start complaining. The next time I reach for the hold, it doesn't seem as far so I pass the first bolt and second with little consequence. Clipping the 3rd bolt is also no problem. Then the route moves slightly right into a shallow dihedral which is easily seen from the ground. This move is very insecure. It's extremely difficult to shift your weight into this area from the wall on the left. I hung multiple times with no desire to make the move. No penalty if I fell, I'm just puss. Lots of complaining and eventually top out.
Good enough to do while in the area but don't be fooled, you're likely to be more challenged than you think while looking at it from the base.
Bring some medium size cams to set an anchor.