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9. The Dream Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete, The T 
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 
In Time T 
Psychotic Realization T,S 
Ten Years Later T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Chris Marks, Alan Pilgrim, Pete Henden July '92
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Annaconda on Oct 14, 2012

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Description 

A cool route through the big roof right of the Arete. 1 or 2 pitches.
Climb the rounded buttress with good holds up to a tree with rap slings. Optional belay here. Above the tree, climb straight up to left-trending flakes and layback up until you can step right over the overlap (crux). Scramble back left under the big roof to the left facing corner. Awesome, awkward moves out a horizontal crack (5.7) with great exposure lead over the roof. Pad up the easy slab above to the anchor.

Location 

Start 40 feet right of The Arete. Looking up you'll see a big roof capping a left-facing corner - that's your target.

Protection 

standard rack. Two bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top. Two raps will get you to the ground, or you can probably do it in one with a 70m.


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By Daniel Weisman
Apr 18, 2016

Not sure if we did this the right way, but really didn't enjoy the finish... Getting onto the face above the roof was pretty unpleasant because of a big loose flake that felt like it would come off if used as a hold. Anyone know if that's way off the route/normal/new?
By Casey Engstrom
From: Lincoln, NH
Oct 4, 2016

This route is the leftmost route from the sling tree. The bolts traversing off to the right are the 5.12b, 3 bolts straight up is the 5.10b, and Bucked-toothed 5.8 goes up and left to the undercling diagonal crack. The crux is getting over the bulge at the overlap, don't be tempted to step off to the right here. Go straight up at the overlap and find a critical right hand crimp, otherwise feels more like 5.10. The roof is easier than it looks, fun exposure as you traverse left on a horizontal crack. From there it's a 5 easy romp to the anchors.