Come here for the multi-pitch sport climbing. Most routes are 2-3 pitches and up to 80m long. A few single pitch routes, especially on the summit crag. Not a huge crag in terms of quantity of routes, but worth a visit if you want to do some longer sport routes. Buck rock is a large fin of rock on the slopes of Mt Te Aroha, so all the climbs are really exposed and give great views down the side of the mountain. Not a crag for those scared of heights! South facing, so takes more than a day to dry off. Not the best crag in winter as morning fog can leave the crag wet and slippery all day. Great in summer, as it stays nice and shaded out of the intense sun. Completely different rock type (Andesite) from those found in Wharepapa South area.
More info visit www.freeclimb.co.nz. It has up to date route information as well as good photo descriptions to help you find where different climbs are.
From the small village of Te Aroha (about an hour drive from Wharepapa south), head south 2km down Te Aroha Gordon road, Turn left down Waiorangomai road and after 1km park at the old Waiorangomai settlement and gold mine. Buck rock is 40m walk up the hill from here through beautiful native bush. Take the high loop track for 20 minutes, then turn off the buck rock track for 20 more minutes. This should take you past the base of buck rock. A small cairn with red tape (easy to miss) marks the steep track up to the base of the crag. You should pass an old mine shaft on the way. The track meets the cliff next to the route "Première"
Climbing Season For the North Island area.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
4 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Buck Rock
Bring Back Buck 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Oceania
: New Zealand
: ... : Main Cliff
A nice 2 pitch route with a variety of moves and some interesting rock features.Pitch 1 (19) - 30mAfter the 2nd bolt traverse right above the roof until you reach a small ledge (crux). Well bolted through this section. From here continue up the face (right most line of bolts) to the obvious knob pinnacle feature above. Bolting can be a little spaced on this section. You want to be comfortable on 18/5.10a.Pitch 2 (18) - 20mclimb the face (going right via the scoop, then back left is easier). Head...[more] Browse More Classics in International
Because Buck Rock is located part way up Mt Te Aro...