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Buck Nasty 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown (Maybe Richie Janow, who named it)
Page Views: 1,040
Submitted By: Alan Brock on Nov 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Buck Nasty

Description 

Climb a well-protected corner to the roof using the crack and occasional face holds. Traverse left underneath the roof and round the corner. Take a moment here to enjoy the view and exposure. Once you've had your fill of the river valley below, continue to the top on easier, but sometimes nasty, terrain.

Location 

Start in a corner about 10 feet to the right of Big Men, Small Airplanes and about 15 feet left of Lucky Strikes.

Protection 

Standard rack will do nicely. #1 Mastercam through a #3 Camalot. Sling your gear well, or rope drag will shut you down quickly! Build a gear anchor or sling a tree at the top. Work out your belayer communication before you start as they are long out of sight/earshot once you top out.


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By Gregg Albritton
Jun 10, 2015

I am not sure who climbed this route first but I did it on 4 cams in the mid 90's and have never been back to it. The upper pitch after you pull around the corner/ceiling makes commmucation with your belayer all but impossible.

I set a long sling with double cams at the end of the ceiling corner and downclimbed, cleaned, and then back up and out. I don't remember it being 5.8, 5.7 yes, but 5.8 - not really.

The name is most appropriate because the top is moss covered and nasty. Be prepared to run-out the top on a couple of pieces and just go. Just scope your placements before you start up and enjoy the exposed view of the the Hiwassee River Gorge!

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