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Buck Nasty 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown (Maybe Richie Janow, who named it)
Page Views: 1,040
Submitted By: Alan Brock on Nov 17, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Buck Nasty


Climb a well-protected corner to the roof using the crack and occasional face holds. Traverse left underneath the roof and round the corner. Take a moment here to enjoy the view and exposure. Once you've had your fill of the river valley below, continue to the top on easier, but sometimes nasty, terrain.


Start in a corner about 10 feet to the right of Big Men, Small Airplanes and about 15 feet left of Lucky Strikes.


Standard rack will do nicely. #1 Mastercam through a #3 Camalot. Sling your gear well, or rope drag will shut you down quickly! Build a gear anchor or sling a tree at the top. Work out your belayer communication before you start as they are long out of sight/earshot once you top out.

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By Gregg Albritton
Jun 10, 2015

I am not sure who climbed this route first but I did it on 4 cams in the mid 90's and have never been back to it. The upper pitch after you pull around the corner/ceiling makes commmucation with your belayer all but impossible.

I set a long sling with double cams at the end of the ceiling corner and downclimbed, cleaned, and then back up and out. I don't remember it being 5.8, 5.7 yes, but 5.8 - not really.

The name is most appropriate because the top is moss covered and nasty. Be prepared to run-out the top on a couple of pieces and just go. Just scope your placements before you start up and enjoy the exposed view of the the Hiwassee River Gorge!

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