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Buck Mt.

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East Ridge T 

Buck Mt. Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 11,938'
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Administrators: Mike Snyder, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Henderson on Apr 26, 2009


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Buck Mt. is the southernmost crystalline peak of the Tetons and, as the highest peak south of the Garnet Canyon group, offers stellar views of the southern Tetons as well as the main summits. It is easily climbed from the east but also offers more difficult routes on it's steeper northern or southern faces. Buck is also a favorite ski summit.
Generally, the rock on the popular eastern routes is of poor quality, but the critical sections of the east ridge are solid. Better rock and more adventure is found on the north face and on the infrequently climbed southern routes.

Getting There 

Buck Mt. can be approached several ways; the north face is approached by way of the rugged south fork of Avalanche Cyn, the southern and western routes by the Skyline Trail over Static Pk and the "No-Wood" basin. The popular eastern routes are accessed via Stewart Draw as follows:
Hike up the Death Canyon Trail about 3/4 mile until just before the 3rd footbridge. A faint trail (recently relocated) branches off to the right. After a short section through the trees, you begin climbing NW through a large meadow. Continue northward along the base of the foothills, crossing several forested ridges and small streams, navigating confusing detours and horse paths. Stay west and out-of-sight of the main stream from Stewart Draw until the trail veers west into the lower draw. There, you finally cross the main stream near a house-sized boulder. Then the easily-followed trail takes a westerly direction, by-passing a headwall to the north, and eventually reaching a campsite on the east edge of a verdant meadow. From the stream intersection in the meadow, the best progress is made by crossing the northern stream and ascending the wide talus slope to the north around the headwall and then following slabs, talus, scree and boulders west, aiming for Timberline Lake located between Static Pk and Buck Mt.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Buck Mt.

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Buck Mt.:
East Face   3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   
East Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Buck Mt.

Featured Route For Buck Mt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending E Face on 7/24/11 after going up the E ...

East Face 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a  Wyoming : Grand Teton National Park : Buck Mt.
From Timberline Lk, ascend talus towards the nasty gully that drops south from the east toe of the east ridge. Avoid the gully and move left on ledges and scree as soon as you can. Then follow the natural leftward ascending traverse to the center of the face. After passing through a narrow constriction, ascend slabs and grassy ledges (or snow) to the summit. In early season, exercise caution as steep cliffs lurk below - a slip on snow could be catastrophic. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Wyoming

Photos of Buck Mt. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Buck Mountain in the center with the snowy diamond...
Buck Mountain in the center with the snowy diamond...
Rock Climbing Photo: Weather moving in on Buck Mountain.
Weather moving in on Buck Mountain.
Rock Climbing Photo: The fun East Ridge of Buck.
The fun East Ridge of Buck.
Rock Climbing Photo: Stewart's Draw & Buck Mt in winter.
Stewart's Draw & Buck Mt in winter.
Rock Climbing Photo: L to R: Albright Pk, Static Pk, Buck Mt, 10696, ti...
BETA PHOTO: L to R: Albright Pk, Static Pk, Buck Mt, 10696, ti...

Comments on Buck Mt. Add Comment
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By Andrew Mayer
From: Driggs, ID
Aug 23, 2017
The climber's trail off the death canyon trail to just before timberline lake is well defined and easy to follow. 2 hours TH to lake at a stout hiking pace.

Also for those looking to descend the S ridge to allow for a loop down to static divide and the death canyon switchbacks - the S ridge is straight forward class 3 & 4 to the prominent notch visible from the lake (just north of the tower). From here both descent options (E or W) are poor.

W couloir from the notch starts out as straight forward scrambling but it semi-cliffs out and requires some creative low 5th traversing (skier's R) on loose terrain, linking together narrow ledges and steep steps between them. not recommended.

I later returned and descended the E couloir from the notch and could not find a way to traverse around the E side of the tower to the buck/static saddle. Instead I had to continue down extensive 3rd-4th class downclimbing and traversing on ledges (trend skier's L once you hit the grassy patch in the couloir to adjacent gully, trend back R once the gully cliffs out) all the way down to the bergschrund. some creativity may be required to ascend/get around the bergschrund depending on the size and how late in the summer it is. i would not recommend this route either.

would be better to descend the E face to close to the lake, then trend SW and climb (mix of snow and talus) to the buck-static saddle.

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