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Buck a Move 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
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Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Aug 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Buck a Move- 13a.

Description 

Short and savage, Buck a Move follows a line of pockets up a pretty bulge and ends with an easier slab.

Step up on some cheater stones, grab a good starting hold and get ready for business. A hard sidepull or very tight mono move gains some better holds. Then another very skinny mono gets you to better holds below the crux. With awkwardly high feet, get crossed up on some bad two-finger pockets and lunge for a good pocket. Rest up, make a very long move to establish on the slab and tech you way to the chains.

This route is much better than the 0 star quality rating the guidebook indicates. FYI, the monos on this route are very small. I couldn't use the first mono, and had to use my ring finger for the second mono.

Location 

30 feet left of Court N Spark.

Protection 

Bolts, and two bolt anchor.


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