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Campanile Esloveno
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buch-Goin T 
Excuse Me Señora, Give Me la Hora T 
Fonrouge-Bertoncelj T 
Imagínate T 
Take Two (4) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Buch-Goin 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 430', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Esteban Buch & José Luis Goin, 1981
Season: Late spring to fall
Page Views: 200
Submitted By: Gabe K on Feb 3, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Buch-Goin is located in the left-most dihedral, ju...

Description 

Begin 5m below the base of a steep dihedral leading to a distinct roof (9+ crux). Traverse right under the roof, then continue up to the first belay. Follow a series of diverging cracks, trending left, before traversing left to avoid another roof and reaching a loose platform (p2 belay). Continue by circling left and making way to false summit block (p3 belay), then make exposed moves around either side of the false summit, continue exposed traverse before final moves to la cumbre.

Location 

East face of Aguja Campanile Esloveno, most obvious and left-most dihedral leading to the shoulder at 2/3 height of the tower. Start requires harder moves off of bergschrund in spring conditions, or an alternate, easy, but unprotected traverse start from the left. Rappel the route using 1 70 m rope, requires 1 5th class downclimb move to reach start.

Protection 

Trad (doubles in cams to 3, stoppers). P1 belay has bolts, P2 has intermediate pitons useful for rappel. Summit block has 3 bolts (1 spinner, 17 Dec. 2014).


Photos of Buch-Goin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the base of Buch-Goin, below the alternate star...
BETA PHOTO: At the base of Buch-Goin, below the alternate star...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Aguja Campanile
Summit of Aguja Campanile

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