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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 82'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Henry Bartu, Andreas Odermatt, Urs Neu. & Andrea Neiger, 2002
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 17, 2011

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Your Top Rope Hero cruxing out on greasy phantom e...


Japanese for "I'm tired of missionary; can we try doggie fashion?" Not recommended for sushi bars or "proper" geisha houses.

A fun romp up technical edges, bomber jugs, side pulls, and an airy crux traverse just before the anchor chains. Very soft for the 10d grade given in the Aris guide.


Find the second cave past the south goat pen, move right ten military paces to the left-facing corner on the left main wall, then count eight lines to the right and locate the swiss cheese pockets of "Drama," then take back one kadam to honor the Hebrew God, whose climb this is, and BAM! You're ready to start looking for Bubuki. (The climb, I mean, not the sex act.)

Or hell, just look for the damn name painted big in blue 'n' red at the base of the climb.


Thirteen-ish bolts to 2-bolt/2-'biner anchor. Anchor is starting to groove.

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By Josh Baxley
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 25, 2016

Word of caution. This is a 3 star route in the guidebook. It's only 3 stars if you stop after the crux headwall mid route and lower from one of the nearby anchors. Second half of this pitch totally sucks.