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French's Dome
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Alpha Centauri S 
BSD S 
China Man S 
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Dark Man S 
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 
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Do it Again S 
French's Doughnut S 
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Road Face S 
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Straw Man S 
Tin Tangle S 
Yellow Brick Road T 

BSD 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 337
Submitted By: Micah Klesick on Oct 20, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

BSD is the direct start for Road Rage. Rather than starting as for Road Kill, start at the edge of the first built tier, and go straight up into Road Rage to the Road Rage anchors. Thin and sustained crimping until the 4th bolt clipping hold, then about 20' of sustained 11+ edges with only one decent hold to get a quick shake on until about 2/3 up. Then it gets easier to the anchors. Fun and powerful movement through the crux.
I'd recommend stick clipping the 2nd glue in bolt, as it is very hard to clip during the crux.

Location 

second route to the left of Road Face (first prominent bolted route when you reach the crag.)

Protection 

6 bolts - Merges with Road Rage at the 3rd bolt.


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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 1, 2015

BSD was rebolted with ASCA bolts SS glue in bolts on 9/1/15. The bottom old wedge bolt was left, as it could be useful if you were climbing it without a stick clip. However, I've never heard of anyone climbing it without one, and in that case, it's a rather pointless bolt (9' off the ground). Clip it if you want, but its recommended to stick clip either the 1st or 2nd glue in bolt.
By Ryan Patridge
From: Portland, OR
Jun 5, 2016
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I climbed this today without a stick clip, and it felt fine. I could reach the wedge bolt from the ground, and clipping the first glue-in felt strenuous, but not insecure or dangerous.
Ryan