REI Community
(o) Right of the Escalator
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Axe of God T 
B.S. Arch T 
Breeze, The T 
Bullocks T 
Flatman Chimney T 
Free Lance T 
Hair Lip T 
Hair Pie T 
Hot Buttered Rump T 
Jackal, The T 
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 
Philocetes' Bow T 
Poppycock Arch T 
Shadow, The T 

B.S. Arch 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Jay Smith, Tom Burns 8/73
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Located on the portion of face between Free Lance (5.10c) and Flatman Chimney (5.9) and identified as a prominent, right-arching undercling crack.

Start up Axe of God and then break right to follow the obvious thin flake which is underclung right to it's end where slightly runout but easy face leads to the top. Rap off (80') the large pine which sits atop the face.

Protection 

gear to 2.5"


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By dnaiscool
Aug 12, 2014

I thought this was a terrific climb, and I'd give it a couple of stars...That being said, there is one place in the crack where the rope likes to get really jammed below where the route intersects "Poppycock Arch", so be mindful of that if you are set to lead this little thing, which took lots of thin cams to protect. Otherwise it is a fun TR off the Rap Tree above.

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