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Routes in Balcony Rock
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Bluto's Bluster T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Brutus TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cliff Monster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Cookie Monster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crown Of Thorns T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Medallist T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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J. Wellington Wimpy TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Olive Oyl T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poopdeck Pappy TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Popeye's T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Popeye's Left T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Professor Watasnozzle TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweet Pea T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Thumb Press T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Thumb Press Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Train Song TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | David Carrier and Ben LaCour |
| Page Views: | 987 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | David Carrier on May 12, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Frances Fierst, C S |
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Description
Start about 10 feet right of Popeye's, beneath a roof about 12 feet off the ground. Work your way up finger cracks and crimps to the roof, then work right using underclings and finger cracks. Crux move is getting past the first roof to jugs just above. Don't relax yet, there's a second roof halfway up, but it's easier than the first. Pull through the roof on the middle to left side and make your way up ledges to the top.
Location
Bottom of route is 10-15 feet right of Popeye's. Top of route is 20 feet right of Crown of Thorns.
Protection
Toprope anchor on the big block to climber's right of the large ledge 10' below the top, using a very long static line. You can use this same anchor for all routes from Popeye's to Olive Oyl. Be sure your master point hangs over the lip to avoid abrasion and rope drag. Rappel down so you can redirect the rope around the appropriate blocks and notches.
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