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Elizabeth Boulder
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L to R R to L Alpha
La traversée de l'orque 
Slapping the Belly of a Whale 


Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V7+ Font: 7A+ [details]
Page Views: 65
Submitted By: Colin R on Sep 15, 2013

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Brutus starts on the backside of the Elizabeth Boulder on a vertical side pull rail for the left hand and high right flat hold on a sloping ramp feature for the right. There are several different ways to do this including what I call "short" and "tall" beta. The short beta involves slapping up the left hand rail until you can high step your right foot next to your hand and deadpoint with your right hand into the sharp right crimp (need to be short and/or flexible). The tall beta (which I used) is to leave your feet a bit lower and leave your left hand lower onto the rail (where you start) to power up and deadpoint the sharp crimp in one move. I would say the tall beta is more straight-forward and powerful and the short beta involves more body contortion and flexibility (doesn't work for me). After the crimp you still have to move your left hand up into an awkward crack feature and then top out using some good holds out left of the crack (harder for those who have no crack technique).


Backside of the Elizabeth boulder


3 pads is ideal - landing is covered by logs/trees and is a bit rocky and often wet.

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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Sep 15, 2013

Video Here:

By yann gauthier
Aug 6, 2014

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 28, 2016

Downrated to V7-ish

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