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Brutal Planet T,TR 
Cold Nipples and Busch T 
Cryptic T,TR 
Grateful Head S,TR 
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Smiling Mortician, The T,TR 
Unnamed corner to dirty crack T 
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Watusi Afterworld S,TR 

Brutal Planet 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alvino Pon and Kevin Martinov, 2002
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: Dan Howell on Jun 27, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Brutal Planet.

Description 

If you begin this from the tree, it is about 65 feet. Scramble up the slabs to the base of a wide crack/offwidth. From here, it is about 25 feet of right-facing offwidth. The crux is about halfway up the crack. Long sleeves and pants are suggested.

Location 

This is near the left edge of the formation. It is easily identified as it is a wide crack. Walk off to the left.

Protection 

There are no bolts on this one. Bring a light rack with LARGE pro for the offwidth, Big Bros. There is one bolt up top, and anchor with cracks nearby for the remainder of the anchor (#3 Camalot).


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By Mindy Peep
Jan 11, 2014

I'm so stoked. This is my first send on a 10 offwidth. Did this without Bigbros, had two 6s for sure. This is a small offwidth which is why I think I did so well. Bigger bones beware. The first 15 feet is a sustained heel toe and then flares to the crux with a much smaller opening. I top roped this first and was able to gaston and lieback on the finger crack, and it felt great, but I was more timid on lead. Best way to get through the crux. Last move is a hand jam over a chockstone that teeters a little. If you can, pull your piece below the chockstone so you don't hate life. Don't lower on your rope, that chockstone will eat it.

So fun!
By Andrew S.
From: Bouldurr
Jan 27, 2017

This can be done without Bros but having two #6 cams was nice. I also used a #4 at the bottom and two #5, one down low and one before the chockstone move. Sling the last cam with a runner to avoid the rope from shredding and becoming pinched. We found it easier to belay up the second and rappel. This is a great offwidth with the typical blood and grunt you'd expect.

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