Brusin' and Cruisin'
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BETA PHOTO: Bruisin' & Cruisen'
Start on the 3rd class ramp of Hanging Gardens, but move right into the giant flake about 25' up.
Bruise you way up if you want to climb it like an offwidth and be prepared for a fight. Or Cruise it and take the more enjoyable way up, having a blast liebacking up for a long ways.
Most of it is very secure, but a short section about halfway through is a bit tougher. Get through this and cruise to where the flake ends. Then traverse left to meet up with the last 20' of Hanging Garden's.
Leading this would be pretty heinous and require a lot of really large gear. The best way to enjoy the climb is to set up a TR after climbing the first pitch of Hanging Garden's.
Start is same as Hanging Garden's and right where the approach trail meets the wall.
Gear: Big cams, Big Bro's, etc if you are going to try and lead it. Plus a handful of hand size pieces for the last section. A 60m rope works, but barely. A 70m is better.
Anchor: 2 bolt anchor with chains
By sean peters
Nov 11, 2016
You can safely lead this route with cams to size #4 and nuts. Some rotten rock near the middle section. Down low seemed more difficult than near the top of the chimney/crack. The exit out of the system to gain the chains is exciting.