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Voodoo Dome
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Brushmaster T 

Brushmaster 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark and Shirley Spencer, Oct. 1988
Season: late Spring to early Fall
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Brandt Allen on Jul 1, 2016

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Description 

Start up an obvious ~20 ft. dihedral, at the top of which is a cruxy bulge. Continue up a short right-slanting crack to a small roof. The bottom of a long water runnel is on the right side of the roof. Climb a tricky move past the left side of the roof to a stance just right of a thick flake. One reachy move up and left gains the top of the flake (#4 Camalot protects this nicely). From there, yet another cruxy move from a right hand pocket leads up a right-slanting crack and to the water runnel. Easier climbing heads up to the top. Double-rope rappel from chain anchor.

Location 

At the top of the approach trail go a little to the right and look for a deep dihedral with a long obvious water runnel above and right of it.

Protection 

A good mix of gear from nuts to medium cams (doubles in #0.4 to #2 Camalots helpful). One each #3 and #4. Two-bolt chain anchor at the top.


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