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3. The Mid Section
Routes Sorted
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Bruin T 
building steam with a grain of salt T 
Coloring Book T 
Dead Easy T 
DIVIDING LINE for MID-SECTION T 
Face Dances  T 
Fifty Center T 
L' Anniversaire T 
Littoral Zone, The T 
Livin' Easy T 
Pencilneck Geek T 
Rhino Skin T 
Rubberneck T 
Scramble to "Launch Ledge" T 
True Colors T 
Unknown next to L'Anniversaire T 

Bruin 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c X

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c X [details]
FA: Kurt and Karen Moffat Winkler Oct. 1984
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 1, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Showing the Piton belay stance for Bruin

Description 

While nominally rated 5.4, this is most definitely NOT for the neophyte 5.4-5.5 leader! This is ESPECIALLY true, if you continue the natural line above the belay! (The route steps right into the belay, and then P2 CONTINUES RIGHT out of the belay. Starting pitch2 back on the left, the "natural line" commences with a quite-thin move! )

Those looking for better protected, easy climbs should think about Dead Easy (5.1 - 5.2 G/PG), Livin' Easy (5.4-5.5 PG / with 5.3 PG-13) , or P1 of Rubberneck (5.5 G / 5.3 PG/R) instead.

Kurt was climbing friction exceedingly well in the 1980's ( he still does!) as demonstrated by "True Colors" and "Sir Bor's Dream (on Table Mt.)

Usually wet with run-off until late spring or summer.

START: From the toe, hike up to the brown slab area and then scramble, or climb belayed (Class 3-4) to the "launching Ledge" (see separate description). Scramble (or climb belayed) 5-6 ft up to the next highest ledge system, and then traverse left 25-30 ft to a fixed piton. (photos)

Pitch 1 - From the piton, Climb straight up the lightly colored orange rock just left of a brown streak. About 40 ft above the piton a hole, just left of a curving flake, takes a Green Camalot. Towards the top, if one moves left, out of the orange rock to darker rock, some gear might be placed.
Step a few feet right to the belay at a stance just below the right-hand of two crescent-shaped cracks. (single 3/8" bolt and new (2014) piton) 130-140 ft 5.4-5.5 R/X There is ancient remnant of one of Kurt's two original belay pitons still visible. [Same belay as for True Colors]

P2 - Move out RIGHT and finish on P2 of True Colors. 130-150 ft 5.3 bring a wire brush.

Rap from the trees with 2 ropes. Or, from the belay at the end of P1, climb down and right a few feet to the new anchor for L'Anniversaire. Rap from there with 2 ropes. ( A single 70 meter JUST makes it to the "launch Ledge".

Protection 

Not much, but small to medium cams might work on the darker rock to the left of the route


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