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Bruce Carson Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tim Coats, Bobbi Bensman 1983
Page Views: 978
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Sep 30, 2010

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Stopper from Carson's bail anchor on the second pi...


The Bruce Carson Memorial Route was named in honor of the clean-climbing legend who was the first to attempt the line in 1973. Carson died in the Indian Himalaya after falling through a cornice on September 4, 1975, at only 24 years of age. The route climbs the back side of the same crack system that forms the Original Route, and joins that route on its 4th pitch.

Pitch 1: Traverse the Fort Apache limestone from the notch. A tricky step across a missing portion of the ledge (5.9) leads the belay at the base of the corner.

Pitch 2: Climb the left-facing corner, passing a smooth bulge that was Carson’s high point in the 70’s (5.10). Continue above to a belay in a recess.

Pitch 3: Follow wide cracks and chimneys (5.9) to join the 4th pitch chimney of the Original Route. Follow that route to the summit of the second tower.


Standard Sedona rack.

Photos of Bruce Carson Memorial Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A Clean Grade Six- article by Bruce Carson in Moun...
A Clean Grade Six- article by Bruce Carson in Moun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bruce Carson Memorial Route topo.
BETA PHOTO: Bruce Carson Memorial Route topo.

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By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 22, 2017

Oof. I tried this today and got owned. Has this thing seen a full 2nd ascent since Coats and Bensman? I'm guessing not because it was filthy dirty and I was breaking tons of holds off. I bailed right where ol' bruce bailed, even used (presumably) his ancient fixed hex. This part was a very very awkward offwidth/squeeze on the shallow part where the walls come relatively close-ish together but only for about 4 inches and then open up again in the back, making it pretty hard to employ normal OW technique.

I would recommend at least one 4, 5, and 6. Offsets, tiny cams, and small/mediums nuts were also useful for some good mental pro on the traversing pitch one, thankfully the climbing, while loose, isn't too hard there.

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