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Brownies In The Basin 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Walt Wehner on Jan 1, 2001  with updates from David Wieder

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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  • Description 

    This route was originally done without the bolts and has been retrobolted by unknown bolters. Apparently one of the retrobolts has been removed.

    The route is located on the west side of the buttress, uphill from the more popular routes. Look for a steep wall with 3 retrobolts and a slung horn for a hazardous anchor. It's a worthy climb, though short and somewhat strangely retrobolted. It is possible to do a short second pitch (~5.9) up the crack above that connects with the Northwest Corner.

    Eds. this description has been edited.


    A rack, 3 retrobolts, and a few pins. One of the retrobolts has been removed. There is no bolted intermediate anchor.

    Do not sling the horn. It is ready to come down!

    Photos of Brownies In The Basin Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve is placing gear.
    Steve is placing gear.

    Comments on Brownies In The Basin Add Comment
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    By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
    Sep 29, 2001

    This route is the line of Brownies In The Basin. This was first led by Rob Candelaria back in the '70s. I led this about ten years ago (at 5.9 X). Gear includes a couple RPs (did not have Aliens then), some ways below the crux. To my knowledge some others have led this too, including Chris Archer. No one has fessed up to this retro-bolting, anyone know who did this? Having said all this, it it certainly a more fun lead with the bolts, and I for one would not particularly like to see them removed. Maybe just for folks to check their guidebooks before drilling! Also watch out, my head got attacked by a falling Stopper while finishing this pitch. It may only have been a #12, but it sure felt like a #48. Painful!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 13, 2002
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    I did this route a few years back, and I lead it again last night after it got retrobolted. I skipped the bolts this time. Last night I continued up the crack past the anchor for quite some ways before moving slightly left and finishing the rest of the rock on the arete. This is one long pitch. Done this way the bolted section felt like 5.10a (it felt that way before it was bolted too), the moves for the next 15' are 5.8, and then there is a 5.10b crux above pro when the side-pulls and feet peter out at the same time. From there the route gets more slabby (5.8?) for a while, with so-so pro. When you encounter a broken area and some leaning flakes on the arete to the left, move onto the arete and charge for the top. The arete here is nice and goes 5.9, VS if you are not skipping off to the sides at the final bulge. If you don't liek the runout, you could move hard right at the final bulge and clip the fixed pins with long runners before pulling it there. This is as for Northwest Corner.

    Very nice.
    By Scott Conner
    From: Lyons, CO
    Aug 13, 2003

    As of 8/12/03, the first hanger is missing. The stud is sticking out about 1.5" so you can still loop a wired stopper on it. Check the slings thoroughly before you rap; They're looking a little tattered. Good route!
    By Fred Knapp
    Aug 17, 2004

    I just climbed this on Sunday, not knowing what it was. I led it as one long pitch (160') to the top, veering right to join trad route with occasional fixed gear. I thought it was great and felt like 5.10. The first hanger was missing, but cams work just as well. I was drawn to the route more by the crack above the slung horn than by the bolted face. Going to the top makes this a great route rather than just another sport climb.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 20, 2007

    The first hanger is still MIA. It is a bit strangely bolted, but I want to go back and do it to the top, on gear the whole way.

    Or, I'm thinking it'd be a tough elmiminate to climb direclty up the bolt line, offrouting all the big stuff out R.
    By Ben Wirz
    Jul 2, 2007

    Hi Guys,

    Someone removed the lowest bolt so this is no longer a sport climb. Please update the description. Kind of a bummer for climbers who are trying to break into trad by honing our skills on sport routes.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 6, 2009
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

    While some might think that is a bummer that someone removed a bolt, other people don't appreciate the retro-bolting of an existing line. Not sure who did it, but in my mind, the removal was justified by the line's previous history and such action should be more or less expected when someone plunks a bolt into a documenteed pre-existing line without some sort of consensus or agreement of the FA party.

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