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Anarchy Crack T 
Asscrack, The 
Assorted Goods 
Beer Belly 
Brown Sugar S 
Classic Orange 
Double Clutch 
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 
Fingertip Mantle 
Flake, The TR 
Frosted Flakes 
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 
gripper, The S 
Hot Sweaty Buns S 
Mantle Puss 
Monkey Lust 
Monkey Lust Right 
Mr. Mantle 
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 
Pencil Thin 
Pencil Thin Flake 
Pencil Thin, Right Arete 
Perforator right 
Prow, The 
Short N' Easy 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 
Unnamed V3 TR 
Virgin, The 
Whales Back 
Wiley Left 
Wiley Right 
Wolf Jr. 
Unsorted Routes:

Brown Sugar 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Guadnola/Bob Blair 12/1990
Page Views: 1,093
Submitted By: Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Fear Rock. 'Brown Sugar' is the bolted route on th...


This route used to be rated 5.6, but some holds on the start have broken off during the years. Now the start is 5.7, perhaps even 5.8. Easier 5.6 face climbing after the start. This climb alternates from good hands/no feet to good feet/no hands.


This is the bolted route furthest on the left on the 'Fear Rock' formation. This climb is to the right of the crack climb 'Naked Bimbos from Mars (5.7)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect about 20 minutes of boulder hopping.


Four bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. Looks like there used to be two bolts at the top, but only one survives now.

Photos of Brown Sugar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Suzanne face climbing on 'Brown Sugar'
Suzanne face climbing on 'Brown Sugar'

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By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is great route. First few moves are 5.7, then eases off to 5.5 or easier. Bring couple wired nuts to tie off "naked bolt anchor at top. Either that or slot couple metolius master cams 00, 0, or 1 in shallow crack on right side.
By AnthonyBroich
6 days ago
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun route. Two bolts on top makes for a great top rope.

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