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El Dorado
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L to R R to L Alpha
Black Gold S 
Brown Smoothies TR 
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 
Kindergeist T,TR 
Nuggets S 
Olas Negras S 
Poltergeist TR 
Snooze T 

Brown Smoothies 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tim Medina, 1990
Page Views: 563
Submitted By: J Rees on Aug 26, 2010  with updates from Aaron Formella

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Ryan Cerf looking for his next hold on Brown Smoot...

Description 

On south side of formation, right under the anchors. This route would have rated higher if it wasn't for the poison oak all over my face afterward. Watch your rope!

Update 2017: There is no poison oak at the base of the climb. There are a few instances of poison oak on the approach trail and the trail that runs (climber's right) up to the top of the El Dorado formation, but it is avoidable if you cautiously look for it.

Protection 

The route is top-ropeable from a new anchor on top of the formation (installed summer 2015) that has chains and rings, but requires very long slings (≈12' each) or a static line (≈30' long) to reach over the lip. The climb now has 5 lead bolts and requires topping-out the formation to lower or walk off. Bolts are Fixe Triplex (75 mm length). The old anchor is still intact but is very rusty and not recommended.


Photos of Brown Smoothies Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Cerf enjoying the moves on Brown Smoothies. P...
Ryan Cerf enjoying the moves on Brown Smoothies. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur Wesley setting up to top out El Dorado via ...
Arthur Wesley setting up to top out El Dorado via ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Cerf looking focused on Brown Smoothies. Phot...
Ryan Cerf looking focused on Brown Smoothies. Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur Wesley looking for his next hold on Brown S...
Arthur Wesley looking for his next hold on Brown S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur Wesley on Brown Smoothies. Enjoy the View. ...
Arthur Wesley on Brown Smoothies. Enjoy the View. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur Wesley on a redpoint burn of Brown Smoothie...
Arthur Wesley on a redpoint burn of Brown Smoothie...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur Wesley testing one of the namesake Brown Sm...
Arthur Wesley testing one of the namesake Brown Sm...
Rock Climbing Photo: Arthur Wesley cranking Brown Smoothies. Photo by A...
Arthur Wesley cranking Brown Smoothies. Photo by A...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Brown Smoothies Anchor bolts are suspect and s...
BETA PHOTO: The Brown Smoothies Anchor bolts are suspect and s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Olas Negras (5.12a) traverses right on 7 bolts. Br...
BETA PHOTO: Olas Negras (5.12a) traverses right on 7 bolts. Br...

Comments on Brown Smoothies Add Comment
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By John Knight
Sep 14, 2010

Let me know if you're interested in helping replace these bolts.

John
By ryan bello
Sep 22, 2015

Brown Smoothies is a well bolted and anchored lead climb now. Aaron Formella , John Knight , Ryan Bello summer 2015. Next to the now well bolted and well anchored OLAS NEGRAS.......CLIMB ON
By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This climb used to be a toprope only. 3 bolts were added to make it a lead climb. Bolts 3 & 4 are shared with Olas Negras' bolts 5 & 6. It's one of the best routes at Cabrillo. Here's a video of the climb with the new lead bolts:

By Aaron Formella
From: Atascadero, CA
Apr 12, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A new jug appeared on this route where someone pulled off a block sometime in winter of 2015/2016 just a couple feet up and right of bolt two making it possible to go up with the right hand there and get a decent rest alternating holds. It probably doesn't change the grade a whole lot since it's a short climb, just a little less sustained.

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