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BETA PHOTO: The route....
Rappel from a tree that sits above a chimney that splits the brown shield 210' to two bolts atop the second pitch. From bolts, rappel down and left into the large, left-facing corner to a ledge below a large, detached flake (it seemed super solid to us). From this ledge, rappel 220' to ground on a fixed 70m, and climb the first pitch with the other 70m (unless you want to drag up the extra rope on your back...).
P1: climb broken cracks and flakes with good pro here and there that wander up into and beyond the left side of an upside down "u", 5.11- 220'.
P2: climb up left-facing corner to top of big flake. Climb up corner 10 more feet, then cut right across the face towards a crack near the arête. Climb around arête and up to bolted belay, 5.10 PG-13, 80'.
P3: climb up face on edges and flakes past three pitons and placing occasional small cams and nuts to a big ledge at the base of a chimney, 5.11 PG13, 120'.
P4: climb up chimney to the top, 5.9, 80'.
On the Island Peaks Overlook, look towards the gully that is towards the ranger station. On the other side of the gully is a brown shield-like wall. The last pitch is the chimney that ends at a juniper toward the left side of the shield wall.
Double set from #0.1 BD - #4 BD, Stoppers, and a set of hybrid Aliens might not hurt.
Oct 10, 2016
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Really fun climbing on scary, chossy rock. The entire formation is made of blocks and plates and section of the wall sound entirely hollow. Be very careful at the bottom of the route, as there are numerous blocks waiting to launch you off the wall before you have any good gear in. P3 has excellent, slightly overhung, sustained .11 face climbing with marginal gear and pitons too low to protect the crux moves.
Perhaps with a lot of traffic (and a bolt on P3) this route would clean up considerably, but I won't be back to climb this anytime soon.
By Jay 1975
Oct 20, 2016
This was sketchy but god climbing!