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Brown Nosing 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: R. Brown, D. Mabe & Rusty???
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 600
Submitted By: Robbie Brown on May 26, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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So here's the deal. I don't know if i am the first (kind of doubt it) but i am claiming it for now.
Starts with a thin hands corner (5.9) to a wide V-slot with a handcrack in the back. Optional belay (50ft ***) From here continue up burly V-Slot wide crack with handcrack in the back up to a slung tree. 125ft

Rap off upper section of tree down and to the left to keep ropes from getting stuck in the crack.


40" to the left of White Wedding
Rap from tree with slings to the ground with 2 ropes


Doubles .5-4 with 3-4 #1-#3 C4's
Two Ropes

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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 28, 2013

Robbie revived this hidden gem! Quality climbing for a long pitch, though would work very well to break it up into two short pitches, belaying at the comfy orange scoop ledge (seen in pic below at the treeline). The rock deteriorates a bit the higher you get, though the jams are secure. The tree we rapped from can be seen below too.

Brown Nosing shown below, about 40' left of White Wedding:
Rock Climbing Photo: The dihedral of White Wedding, including the upper...
The dihedral of White Wedding, including the upper pitch. Anchor is on ledge just right of bush at the top of the dihedral
By Zach Harrison
Jan 22, 2016

In 'A better way to die', there is listed "unnamed 5.8 (T. Coats, J. Haisley Mid 1980's) 1 Pitch 60' handcrack" shown in the location of this climb. Maybe they just climbed the first part and bailed at the optional belay? Way to go digging out the obscurities guys. It also lists White Wedding as a 2 pitch 100' hand crack. Ha!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 22, 2016

Correct Zach, and I believe it has typo saying its left of UFC when on the drawing is left of WW. There was no fixed gear on that ledge but may have dissappeared many years ago. Id like to add some anchors at both belays at some point and even take it to the rim!?
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up at the first 50'
looking up at the first 50'

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