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Morning Glory Spire
Routes Sorted
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Book of Dissent T 
Brown Flake T 
Chimney T 
Crack of Doom T 
Easiest Route T 
Fall Line S 
Morning Glory S 
Power Tools S 
Reach for the Sky T,S 
Siesta S 
Skyline T 
Strategic Defense T 
Veal Cage S 

Brown Flake 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1965
Page Views: 4,686
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 4, 2003

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JAG on-sights The Brown Flake


This route begins just to the left of Strategic Defense 5.11c. The opening moves follow a left facing dihedral and are tough to stop and place gear.

A rest is had before a 1 inch crack, follow this crack and traverse to the left. Work out some thin gear in the cracks and setup for the traverse back to the right.

This is where the fun begins. Lieback the flake, and work hard to protect yourself. The gear can be good, but it is pumpy to place. Race to the ledge before your hands open up on their own. Traverse to the right and rap on the S.D. anchors.


TCU's, lowe balls, medium cams, and nuts

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By Dougald MacDonald
Aug 29, 2006

An experienced City climber suggested this route was more like 5.11a before we did it, and I wouldn't argue. With bolts it would be a cruise, but placing the pro requires an ever-evolving battle between the rising pump and the desire for security. Many will need to punch it to reach the jugs near the top, and then they'll wish those jugs were bigger. Great stuff!
By mountainsense
Sep 16, 2008

By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 18, 2010

Lead this on the morning of 9/12/ 4 of a vicious 7-day C-Diff infection....and handn't eaten a bite for 18+ hrs. IMO, this is a tougher on-sight than Crack-Of-Doom...and a lot more rewarding as a climb. More-varied, both gymnastically and in gear placements. I was pumped out of my mind at the tope the flake. I rarely emote on routes, but this time I did!
By Ben Folsom
Sep 20, 2010

Jeffrey, I saw you do this when you were feeling really sick. Nice work. I hope you guys had a good rest of your trip.
Really good route, and for sure pumpy. Funny how Fall Line is .10c and this gets .10d, and Brown Flake feels a whole # grade harder.
By Kevin Volkening
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great pitch and a must do! Watch rope drag, use extendable runners on most of your pieces before you get to the brown flake.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Aug 22, 2011

Fun route, I can't believe I waited so long to get on it. In my opinion, it's not so bad, and feels right on at 10+ (certainly easier than Tiny Town or Scar Tissue). Takes more nuts than cams. The nearest anchors are for Skyline, so on a busy weekend you'll have to make a gear anchor.
By kevinhansen
From: Albion Idaho
Mar 4, 2016

By telepaulk
May 16, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

great route! I found it safer and more fun to climb on two ropes.

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