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Broughton Bluff

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Broughton Bluff Rock Climbing 


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Location: 45.5414, -122.38 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
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Kashmir Red Wall, Broughton Bluff

Description 

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There 

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

110 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',55],['2 Stars',34],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',1],['5.8',5],['5.9',13],['5.10',25],['5.11',23],['5.12',27],['5.13',10],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Broughton Bluff:
Edges and Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   (2) Hanging Gardens
The Sickle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Loose Block Overhang   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Classic Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   (3) Red Wall
Gandalf's Grip   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   (1) North Face
Sheer Stress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   (3) Red Wall
Sheer Energy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   (3) Red Wall
Tips City   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Red Eye   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   (3) Red Wall
Superstition   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Thai Stick   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 30'   (3) Red Wall
Lost Boys   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Gorilla Love Affair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport   (7) Jungle Cliff
Critical Mass   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Red Wall
Pinhead   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Dracula   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Kashmir   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Closet Nazi   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   (6) Berlin Wall
Bad Omen   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Bloodline   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   (5) Bat Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Broughton Bluff

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik on the lower portion of Oracle.

Oracle 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  Oregon : Portland & The Gorge : ... : (7) Jungle Cliff
Oracle is an amazing line with powerful boulder problems, good rests, and (for me) some tricky kneebar wizardry. Shares the start with Necromancer, but heads straight up where Necromancer cuts right. The lower section is characterized by crimpy v2-3ish moves, then the difficultly kicks up for the last several bolts. Get it! Thanks to Erik for bolting and cleaning this excellent route....[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of Broughton Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Red Wall, left side
Red Wall, left side
Rock Climbing Photo: View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...
View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
BETA PHOTO: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
BETA PHOTO: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
BETA PHOTO: Broughton Bluff(please comment on what wall this i...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom of Jungle Wall
BETA PHOTO: Bottom of Jungle Wall

Comments on Broughton Bluff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006
Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2006
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.
By doggy
Sep 9, 2008
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.
By judee
Apr 5, 2014
When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Oct 8, 2015
If you're new to basalt, or otherwise unfamiliar with the crag, warm up on some easier routes. This place is infamously sandbagged, especially at the lower grades.

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