||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||John Kear, Lee Brinckerhof, Marc Ripperger, Carolyn Parker|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||30|
|Submitted By: ||John Kear on Oct 22, 2008|
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Marc Ripperger following the last pitch of Brother...
Pitch1 - The route starts 25ft left of Wildflower
on easy but runout climbing on good rock. After ramblely climbing to a ledge step left to the arete find pro and climb up to a bolt. Climbing up and right to a thin seam keeps the climbing at 5.10. After 75ft or so the difficulties end and easy climbing leads to a 1 bolt belay with 2 inch gear for the anchor.
Pitch 2 - Climb up and slightly left of the belay on blocky easy terrain toward the pillar/arete above. Climb past mixed gear through the challenging 1st crux 5.11b/c to a stance. More good climbing pulls the bulge above and eases to a slab above. Climb towards a roof and turn this on the right for a few more moves to a belay with a bolt and gear.
Pitch 3 - This is one of the purest lines in the Sandias. You follow a crack/corner system for 180ft to the rim of the wall. The pitch begins with heady slab climbing to gain the crack, the initial corner and crack above is 11a to a stance below the obvious bulge. The bulge is turned to the left than pulls strenuously back into the crack system (crux 12bish). The upper section has more 5.11 climbing to the final corner. This corner can be followed to the top for easier climbing but I've always climbed out onto the arete and short splitter crack that is on the left wall of the corner. Crank through this and belay at a ledge on top from gear.
The route is on the Wildflower Wall to the left of Wildflower. Find the start 30ft left of the pillar on the left side of the wall. The route aims for the obvious continuous crack system of the 3rd pitch. From the top walk right/south back to the top of Sister Moon
and follow that approach back to the top of the wall (fixed lines).
Standard Sandia rack, bring small cams like aliens or similar. There are bolts on every pitch but this is mostly a trad route. There are nine bolts total including the belays.