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Brother Stair 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: P. Jarrard, 1992
Season: any
Page Views: 1,866
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (132)
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It's a much better route on TR, the bolts distract...

Description 

A short climb, but some interesting climbing...
Just around the corner right from the approach trail to Left Flank, there is a short climb on some steep rock. Climb up off-angle pockets for the crux of this one past a total of four bolts to the anchor.
I believe this climb was named after a local preacher in the early 90's.

Location 

Left Flank, just right of the approach trail.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Photos of Brother Stair Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rachel flexing it out through the boulder start on...
Rachel flexing it out through the boulder start on...

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By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Sep 29, 2006

Named for a southern radio evangelist I think. Not necessarily local.
By Kurt Swanson
From: Philadelphia, PA
Mar 14, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Don't fall clipping ... this rock is rough and sharp. I also thought the bolts were a little far from the 5.9 climbing on the arete. Wasn't a big fan.
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun Climb with a hard start. Climbing on the arete is the actual route but you are sometimes pretty far from the clips.
By charris
Sep 30, 2012

The first bolt felt like v1, maybe because it was wet. The rest felt like easy 5.8 with safe clips despite all of the moisture.
By PatrickBecerra
From: Hazel Park, MI
Jun 17, 2014

The new bolts on this climb have been moved to the right of the original bolts about eight inches. It is difficult and/or scary to climb the arete, move right to bolt, and come back in. This line is harder than it's worth, the 5.8 to the left is much more fun and very similar.
By Russ Worley
From: Atlanta, GA
Nov 7, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Agree with Matt...this is definitely a fun climb. We went with a stick clip for the first bolt, which made the start/crux a good one. There are good holds to clip from for anyone with a decent wingspan. If you're in the area, don't pass this one up.
By James Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Nov 28, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Save your time and climb something more fun than this.
By Rick Lewis
From: Indianapolis, IN
Jul 5, 2017

Poorly placed bolts with relation to the climbing makes fun arete climbing difficult due to the clips. Left anchor is loose as of 7/2
By Alex Templar
Sep 9, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

1st bolt is a spinner right now. There is a broken hold that is chocked in place but will likely go soon about 2/3's up. As stated the new bolts are farther from the line and make this a weird route, I had a lot more fun climbing it TR then I did leading it. We didn't climb the sharp end to clean it, rather we cleaned on the lower to be able to enjoy the climb without dealing with 4 micro-traverses (exaggeration, but really). Too bad about the bolt placement because this one has some really cool iron formations to be found and a great start.

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